A smelly church with some fancy tombs, near the L and L Canal

Tuesday, 11 August 2009 14:46

Skipton Parish Church is the burial place of the Cliffords

Holy Trinity stands high and proud at the top of Skipton High Street, right alongside the castle.

The first church was made of wood, built in the 1100s. The church was rebuilt in the 1300s and extended in the 1400s. It suffered damage to the tower in the Civil War - its proximity to the castle probably did not help!

The redoubtable Lady Anne Clifford took on the restoration of the church. She obviously had a desire and gift to make things happen - a large project restoring both the castle and church!

The tower was fated - it suffered lightning damage in 1853. This time the roof was repaired at the same time as the tower.

When gas lighting was fitted in the 1800s it warmed the church but also the bodies buried below in the crypt. Unfortunately this caused such a smell that the floor had to be sealed with 30cms of concrete. I can guarantee that the church no longer smells of dead bodies as we sat through the Sunday service with no "whiff" at all!

The Royal Coat of Arms is prominent with the Medieval seats below

Like many Anglican churches the galleries were taken down in 1909 - such a shame as I rather like the idea of sitting in a gallery and looking down at all the hats! Actually hats are no longer de rigeur for Sunday services as they were in my childhood. The fancy ones at weddings are often no longer to be seen either, though there were some on Saturday.

The box pews were taken out too, replaced with these

Who says lightning does not strike twice - not the congregation at Holy Trinity! This time, in 1925, it caused a fire, completely destroying the organ.

Present organ and choir pews

There are the Clifford tombs in the chancel: on the left is Earl Henry Lord Clifford and his wife, on the right the tomb of George Clifford, Lady Anne's father

The Tombs

The Chancel and screen (over 450 years old)

The reredos behind the altar is very ornate

I found two other things that fascinated me in Holy Trinity. I have never seen anything like them before, although there must be others elsewhere.

Near the chancel is the Dole Board

Is this where the word "dole" comes from? It seems likely when you read the inscriptions. These people existed on charity donations which were recorded for posterity.

At the back of the church is an Anchorite Cell

This was discovered during some recent renovations and would have housed a medieval man or woman who had dedicated their life to prayer. They entered the cell and then were walled up for the rest of their lives by the Bishop during a special ceremony. A shuttered window faced the altar and the hermit was able to hear Mass and receive Communion. Another window faced the "outside world" enabling the Anchorite to receive food and water and dispense spiritual advice and counsel to those who sought it.

What dedication to do that. Perhaps the best known Anchoress is Julian of Norwich who spent much of her time writing. These writings have very much influenced Christian thinking.

Leaving Holy Trinity and emerging into the bright sunlight made me wonder if those who chose such an isolated life ever missed the feel of the sun on their faces. The bustle of the high street and market brought home how we live in a very far from austere way in this country!

Once again I felt how privileged and fortunate we are to be able to cruise the canal system and explore such interesting places from them. The Leeds and Liverpool canal is so rich in history!