A backward trip to Leamington Spa

Thursday, 05 January 2012 20:34

Today is probably our last day on the Grand Union Canal as providing the weather behaves we shall begin our trip up the North Stratford Canal tomorrow. It is the wind we do not like when cruising - not the rain! It was still a bit blustery, and showery but we took a train into Leamington Spa earlier today. 

The River Leam runs east west through the town 

I should really call it "Royal Leamington Spa" as it was granted the prefix by Queen Victoria in 1838, but why? .....

It is now a faded Georgian town but there are still gems from the past to see and with a little imagination the grandeur that the town had as a Spa town can be seen. Although the settlement has been around since the Doomsday Book, it was not until the rediscovery of the "healing waters" (known of in Roman times) of the five wells south of the River Leam that the town began to flourish. 

Royal Pump Rooms and Baths

A spring was found on the north side - and it was here that the Victorians built the baths that became known as The Pump Room and Baths, opened in 1814. It now houses a museum, gallery and the local library. Sadly only the exterior remains as it was, minus a tower! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Pump_Rooms)

Opposite the Pump Rooms, beside the river, is Jephson Gardens.

Garden main gates

These have an aviary and a restaurant (closed at the moment) and were laid out in 1831, open to the public only in the evenings. The rest of the day was for nearby spa customers and paying visitors. (http://www.warwickdc.gov.uk/WDC/Leisure/Parks/Major+parks/Jephson+Gardens/default.htm)

The ornamental lake was full of Canada Geese

There are memorials and fountains in the gardens too - this one was not working but is in honour of Dr Hitchman, one of the towns philanthropists.

The Hitchman Fountain

All Saints Church and the Town Hall dominate the skyline and Queen Victoria has her statue outside the Town Hall. The Queen visited as a Princess (1830) and later in 1858 - she must have liked the town - hence the "Royal"!

All Saints

Town Hall

Queen Victoria

The statue to Victoria was moved an inch on its plinth by a German bomb. It remains an inch out as this photo shows. Perhaps this brings a whole new meaning to the more modern phrase "This lady is not for turning" that another formidable leader apparently uttered! 

Queen Victoria moved by a bomb

The architecture varies now - but some of the buildings retain their Georgian (1720-1840) and Victorian air.

The Parade - the main shopping street

Finally back to the "healing waters". Warwickshire Council Council have erected a drinking fountain on the site of the spring that supplied the Pump Room. The four faces say it all - 

We only had a couple of hours there but managed to sample most of the main "attractions" - including a very good tasting curry, good value for money too, at the local Wetherspoons!

Back to cruising tomorrow ......