Roundheads and Cavaliers at Culham on the River Thames

Thursday, 17 November 2011 10:47

We already know that the River Thames has a long, long history. It was probably here before England saw its first human beings! I am not an archaeologist, or a "proper" historian, just a person who enjoys history as a hobby. Part of the fun is the research and then recording my findings on this blog for your pleasure - or not! To be able to go back to the days of the Civil Wars and the Roundheads and Cavaliers in my imagination is wonderful. Old Culham Bridge over the Swift Ditch is such a place.

Blue plaque on Culham Bridge

Moored so near to this historic site I had to "go see" .....

I knew that if I walked towards Abingdon I could get to the old bridge over the Swift Ditch so off I set. 

Over the wooden footbridge

Narrowboat Iona was moored above the footbridge and over the top of her I could just see Epiphany. At this point I turned "inland" towards the old bridge.

Downstream over narrowboat Iona

Old Culham Bridge is now only for pedestrians, it was once an important Abingdon Bridge over the main navigation now known as Swift Ditch. The old bridge was built around 1416 by the Guild of the Brotherhood of Christ or Holy Cross (now Abingdon's Christ's Hospital) to replace an old ford. 

The Old Culham Bridge is 23 feet wide

At the southern, or Berkshire, end stands the old Toll Cottage with its own pretty wharf

Bridge, cottage and wharf

Now my imagination took off - the bridge was the place that Sir Henry Gage, a Royalist, was shot and killed. The Royalists had left Abingdon in 1644 and the Parliamentarians took control of Culham Bridge, causing problems for the Royalist food convoys on their way to Oxford. Apparently, fed up with this (sorry about the pun), the Royalists tried to capture and destroy the bridge in January 1645. In the battle of Culham Bridge on 11th January, Sir Henry met his fate. If I had been a Royalist I would have been rather upset at their failure to deal with the rebels.

Culham Bridge in all its glory, It is built of stone and has wonderful medieval arches.

Despote the Royalists best attempts, the bridge remained firm and then withstood other tests of time, carrying the main Abingdon traffic until 1928, It played its part in Word War II, as two pill boxes were built on the bridge, carrying anti-tank guns. Part of the parapet was taken down and a concrete platform built. Subsequently the bridge was restored and given Ancient Monument status. 

The "new" bridge is not so exciting but I took a look

The Swift Ditch carries on towards its confluence with the Thames above Abingdon Lock - here's another link to my blog about this and the old lock.

Swift Ditch upstream of the "modern" bridge

It was after this that I became like a badger or a fox in the undergrowth! I clambered down beside the Toll Cottage to get the photos below. I now know how annoying burrs are - the plant kind. I was covered in them, like the badgers, foxes and other "distributors" of these plant seed pods. I distributed them on the Thames Path on my way back home!

These are the wonderful medieval arches from downstream, all different - 

Small northern arch and middle arch

Francis Frith has a wonderful photo of Culham bridge in use in 1950 and, as I assumed, the large arch is the channel arch.

Main arch today - no boats apart from very small craft and canoes can pass due to overgrowth and lack of depth

The reflections were great as I took a last look

Time for home - it was cold and grey and the River Thames looked misty. 

Looking downstream from Swift Ditch outfall

Epiphany is so well hidden, she can only be seen from the path as you arrive beside her!

Our mooring, looking upstream, back to Swift Ditch footbridge and narrowboat Iona