Reminders of the sea beside the River Thames

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Reminders of the sea beside the River Thames

Saturday, 27 August 2011 09:14

Our maritime history is most celebrated at Greenwich - sadly we no longer rule the seas as we once did.

(click to enlarge) Hippolite Taine had it about right in 1861

Still we enjoyed a visit to Greenwich, taking the DLR from Limehouse Basin makes it an easy trip ......

The Cutty Sark, the last tea clipper, was built in Scotland in 1869. I well remember my horror when I saw her go up in flames in 2007. For me she was always the "historic sea symbol" of my childhood. Thanks to the generosity of shipping magnate Sammy Offer and the Heritage Lottery Fund she will be fully restored by 2012 - in time for the Olympics!

The Cutty Sark under wraps

The Old Royal Naval College, originally Greenwich Hospital, a home for veteran sailors, is over 300 years old. It was built on the site of a Royal Palace on the bank of the River Thames, Henry VIII's birth place. The domes of the Painted Hall and Chapel may be a give away as to the architect. It is now home to the University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music.

Sir Christopher Wren's baroque buildings. Fi keeps company with George II

The Painted Hall is a wonderful banqueting hall. Sir James Thornhill took 19 years to paint the ceiling and walls. His imagery of the Royal Family and the strength of the British Navy is striking and full of allegorical themes.

The Painted Hall

The Chapel opposite was built by James Stuart and William Newton. Its calm invaded me as I entered and the acoustics are ideal for concerts and recitals. There is a service every Sunday too. The décor is a mixture of saints and naval symbols.

Chapel nave and chancel

N/S Anchor and rope motif on the marble floor

Discover Greenwich, on the same site, is a visitor centre with a difference - it houses many artifacts, hands on displays and tells the story of the architecture of Greenwich and the World Heritage Site is now is.

We happened to be watching the Royal Observatory on the hill in Greenwich Park when the time ball fell at 1 o'clock (12 noon GMT). See our "wobbly video" here. Originally the Observatory was the home of the first Astronomer Royal, John Flamsteed.

Royal Observatory

We went on to visit the National Maritime Museum. Now, I was disappointed with this - it is being developed into one of the minimalist modern museums that are geared to children. I realize it is still in development, but there seemed to be far less to see than at the Maritime Museum at Falmouth, Cornwall.

National Maritime Museum

The highlight for me was Prince Frederick's Royal Barge - it is as narrow as a narrowboat and 63 feet long. It is gilded in gold leaf and looks in very good condition. It was used by the Prince for business and pleasure and after he died became the principal Royal Barge. Last used in 1849 by Prince Albert, it is now owned by the Queen.